Bordering on War

For Putin, the Russian jet is the third downed plane to warn of the unintended consequences of armed intervention in a little more than a year.

Read More

The Baddest Town in Russia

I ask my driver about the “bandits” who hide out in the mountains and attack the police. “The bandits are in Moscow,” he replies. “The boys in the woods are just regular guys. They don’t touch us. They’re against Russia.”

Read More

Resurrection Day in a Graveyard

Few Russians remain in Grozny. On Easter Sunday they drive down from neighboring Stavropol region to lay some flowers on their relatives’ graves – and then quickly leave again.

Read More

Self-Censored Blog Post

I meet with a Chechen who asks me just to call him “a public figure.” I’m going to censor myself by redacting any other identifying clues. Even if the fighting is over, fear still inhabits the neat and tidy streets of Grozny.

Read More

On Putin Street, Need Beer

The couple of women I see are extravagantly done up, wearing high, high heels as if they were out in Moscow. But there isn’t a drop of alcohol, not in the Café Muskat and not in the convenience store around the corner.

Read More